The right foods can help keep your pup's teeth and gums healthy, while the ‘wrong’ foods can lead to decay and gum disease.
Unfortunately, the mixed messaging on the packaging and the vast variety of brand choices can make it confusing for dog parents to pick and choose foods that won't take a toll on the pup's teeth.
But don't fret!
We've made a list of the top foods you should avoid giving your dog if you want to keep their teeth healthy and strong.
Wheat is a common ingredient in many dog food brands, but it's not the best choice for your pup's teeth.
As a complex carbohydrate, wheat contains starch that breaks down into sugar and fat. Just as you shouldn't consume too much sugar, your pup must also avoid it.
When the sugar in wheat interacts with the bacteria in your dog's mouth, it can create an acidic environment that can damage their teeth and gums.
Besides being bad for the teeth, wheat can be difficult for some dogs to digest. It causes intestinal issues if it doesn't break down properly.
While many hard treats contain ingredients that are safe for doggies to eat, they can still be hard on your pup's teeth.
These treats can cause significant damage to the teeth if chewed on too often. They can break or chip your dog's teeth, making them more vulnerable to cavities and other dental issues.
The same goes for bones. Many pet parents believe that bones are good for their dog's teeth, but this isn't always the case. Bones can splinter and cause serious damage to your furry baby's teeth and gums.
Sticky treats, like those made from peanut butter and honey, can be a great source of protein and other vitamins and minerals for your pup. But they can also be a danger to their teeth.
These treats tend to get stuck between the teeth and stay there, leading to plaque buildup and tooth decay.
It's important to remember that you must give all treats in moderation, reserving sticky treats for special occasions, not as a daily snack. If you choose to give your pup one, always follow up with proper dental care to help remove any plaque that may have built up.
Human food, like cheese and bread, can stick to the teeth and cause plaque buildup and tooth decay. Anything soft and sticky can lead to painful gum disease and, ultimately, tooth loss.
In addition, many human foods are also highly acidic or sugary, which can also contribute to tooth decay. Foods such as candy, coffee, and soft drinks are a big no if you want to keep your dog's dental health in check.
If your dog loves snacking on crunchy treats, you'll be happy to know that there are some healthy options that won't damage their teeth. Some examples include:
Apples are a great source of vitamins and minerals. Their texture helps scrape away any built-up plaque on the teeth. Plus, these fruits contain natural sugar that can help reduce the number of harmful bacteria in your dog's mouth.
Carrots are a good source of fiber. Dogs love munching on them for their crunchy texture. Hence, they're best for scrubbing any built-up plaque on your dog's teeth.
Celery is a crunchy vegetable that's full of vitamins and minerals. It's also a great source of dietary fiber, which can help reduce plaque buildup and keep your pup's teeth healthy.
This dental superfood is rich in the Bacillus licheniformis bacterium that boosts the production of amylase to help fight plaque and excess food particles from your dog's teeth. It's also necessary to break down certain proteins, carbohydrates, and fiber lacking in canine saliva.
Besides these fruits and vegetables, blueberry, strawberry, papaya, sauerkraut, and pomegranate should be a staple in your dog's diet. These foods contain certain enzymes that your furry baby can't produce on their own.
Treats are essential to training your dog and making them feel loved. But you can't just pick anything from the aisle on your monthly grocery runs.
The treats you give your furry baby can make or break their oral health.
Here are a few healthy options you should consider if you want to keep your dog's teeth healthy, clean, and strong.
Jones is a popular brand for canines that has been making dogs happy for 30 years. Their Organic Chicken Dog Treats are a must-try for your pup.
Made using organic chicken, brown rice, and other natural ingredients, these tasty treats are one of the healthiest options for dog treats.
They don't contain wheat, soy, or corn, so you don't have to worry about sugars messing with your dog's teeth.
Cloud Star training treats contain wholesome, easily digestible ingredients. They are 100% gluten and grain-free and don't contain artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives. More importantly, they have 0% corn, eggs, wheat, and soy content, so they won't compromise your dog's teeth.
These soft, tasty, chewy treats come in two flavors:
If you're still skeptical about solid treats ruining your dog's teeth, how about a liquid treat made from all-natural ingredients?
This treat comes in powder form in a refillable bottle. Flavors include Chicken Liver and Dehydrated Non-Fat Yogurt. All you have to do is add water to the powder per the instructions on the packaging.
And voila—you've got some liquid treats for your furry baby!
These are great if you want to keep things interesting for your dog by adding variety. You can store them in the refrigerator for about a week.
Also, thanks to the low-calorie content, they are perfect for training dogs of all sizes and weights—even those getting intensive training. Once you're out of the powder, you can purchase 3 oz or 6 oz of Lickin' Good Powder to refill the bottle.
Whether you're looking for healthy treats for a puppy or an adult dog, Pet Expertise has got you covered. Visit our shop today to get your hands on premium products for your furry baby.]]>
So, anything in your furry baby's diet should be natural and free of fillers, preservatives, artificial flavours, and by-products.
Most dogs have an aversion to teeth brushing. Some run as soon as the toothbrush makes an appearance, while others sulk for hours after having their teeth brushed.
On most days, getting the dog to keep still long enough to give their teeth a good clean is a challenge.
Thankfully, there are plenty of natural treats that can help keep your furry baby's pearly whites in top condition and reduce your stress triggered by brushing time.
Below is our list of the best natural foods for dogs of all sizes that promote oral health and help keep their teeth clean.
Feeding your dog raw bones is a great way to clean their teeth and satisfy their urge to bite and chew at the same time.
Given that you pick bones in the right size (bigger pieces for adult dogs and smaller ones for small dogs), they will help scrape off plaque and keep the gums healthy.
Unlike cooked bones, raw bones don't splinter, so the chances of sharp pieces getting stuck in your dog's throat are minimal. These bones also contain enzymes and probiotics that help maintain an optimal balance of bacterial flora in the dog's mouth
Additionally, raw bones provide a calcium boost to support bone growth and strengthen your dog's teeth and jaw.
That said, you must always supervise your furry baby when they are chewing bones. Make sure they don't gnaw on it too aggressively or attempt to break it into pieces. Also, if you can't find fresh, raw bones for your pup, you can look for air-dried or freeze-dried bones.
Blueberries, cranberries, and raspberries are rich in a compound called non-dialysable material (NDM), which helps prevent plaque formation.
One study confirmed that cranberries are rich in tannins and flavonoids, which prevent problematic bacteria from sticking to gums and teeth. Another research revealed that these compounds could avoid the acid formation and minimize tooth decay.
If you've never fed frozen berries to your dog, it's best to start with just one or two. Check stools to ensure proper digestion. If there are no hiccups throughout the week, you can increase the number of berries to 4 per 30 pounds of dog. Feed every three to five days for best results.
Crunchy vegetables make great dental treats for dogs. Here are our three favourites:
Carrots – raw carrots aren't only tasty but also provide a nutritional punch of vitamin A and beta-carotene. They are also low in calories. Crunching on carrots will help remove plaque from the dog's teeth. Beta-carotene is also believed to prevent cataracts and other eye diseases in canines.
Cucumbers – sliced cucumber, when fed moderately, is an excellent source of potassium. This essential mineral supports kidney health. Thanks to the crunchy texture, cucumber also helps clean a dog's teeth and prevent tooth decay.
Celery – celery sticks make a quick, easy, and healthy dog treat that's easy on the wallet. They are a solid source of fiber, riboflavin, folate, and vitamins A, C, and K.
You can cut these raw vegetables into chunks or sticks for easy chewing. Make sure you feed in moderation as a healthy treat to not overwhelm your dog's digestive system.
If you have a toaster oven at home, you can make delicious sweet potato chews for your furry baby in less than 10 minutes.
All you have to do is grab a raw sweet potato and cut thin slices with the skin on. Place them on a cookie sheet and bake at 2500F for three hours.
Packed with vitamins and fiber, sweet potatoes make a nutritional treat for dogs that promotes their overall well-being while keeping their teeth clean and healthy.
These milk-based products contain healthy bacteria that help prevent the growth of bad bacteria in your dog's mouth, reducing the risk of inflammation and gum diseases.
Yogurt and kefir are also rich in probiotics, which are essential for the gut and immune system health. However, since they contain lactose, adult or senior dogs may struggle to digest them. In that case, you must feed no more than a teaspoon a day while monitoring your dog's condition. If all is well after a few days, you can start giving a full tablespoon daily.
Important: commercially prepared yogurt sold in supermarkets often contains an artificial sweetener called xylitol, which is toxic for dogs. Make sure you check the ingredients every time you buy from a mart to ensure the yogurt doesn't have xylitol or added sugar. Always go for plain, unflavored, and unsweetened yogurt.
Besides crunchy vegetables, berries, raw bones, and other natural foods, you can feed your dog biscuit treats in their favorite flavors without worrying about ruining their dental health if you buy from Pet Expertise. We offer a variety of dog treats made from 100% natural ingredients to keep your furry baby's teeth in good shape.
⮚ Our Jones Organic Chicken Dog Treats are a top choice for dog parents whose furry babies love the taste of chicken. These treats feature a blend of organic chicken, brown rice, barley and oat flour, molasses, and dried cultured skim milk, among other natural ingredients. They don't contain corn, soy, wheat, or artificial flavors.
⮚ Our Cloud Star Chewy Tricky Trainers in Cheddar Flavor contain organic, easily digestible ingredients. With 0% gluten, grain, corn, wheat, egg, and soy content, these make the perfect training treats for dogs of all sizes. Your furry baby will love the cheesy flavor and the soft, chewy texture of these treats.
⮚ Our Cloud Star Chewy Tricky Trainers in Peanut Butter Flavor provide the goodness of peanut butter, maple syrup, tapioca starch, potato flour, and chickpea flour. Besides being easily digestible, these homestyle treats are free of grains, gluten, preservatives, and artificial flavors. Thanks to the no egg, wheat, soy, and corn content, these treats promise to treat your dog's teeth well.
⮚ Lickin' Good! Liquid Dog Treat for Dog Training is a great liquid treat that comes in powder form in a refillable bottle. You can choose between Chicken Liver and Dehydrated Non-Fat Yogurt flavors.
Browse the dog treat selection at Pet Expertise today to get the highest-quality natural treats for your beloved pet!]]>By Jess Rollins
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In order to help every dog and person have an enjoyable walk, we offer a variety of gentle and tested to be effective no-pull solutions. However, with this variety comes confusion on which product to choose!
Our owner and dog trainer, Jess Rollins, compares and contrasts our No-Pull harnesses, collars and leashes to help you select the best option for you and your pooch.
Of course, no device is a substitute for training! How to Teach Your Dog to Walk Nicely on the Leash.
Product |
Pros |
Cons |
Beautifully made, with velvet lining on the belly strap to prevent chafing. Optional double-ended matching leash is available. Multi-functional: Can be used as a regular harness or a no-pull harness. The back attachment tightens somewhat when the dog pulls, which can help prevent pulling as well as escape. Lots of great colors. |
A few dogs are so strong or aggressive that a front attachment harness is not enough control. For these dogs we recommend that you attach the leash to both the back and the front or use a head halter. Not recommended for use with a leash longer than 6 feet when attached to the chest. Not recommended for running with your dog when attached to the chest. The velvet can absorb liquids and get dirty. (It is washable though!). |
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Unique design of the front-attachment strap prevents gapping and shifting. High quality, durable construction. Matching leashes and collars available. Unlikely to chafe your dog. Reflective detailing. Made in the USA of USA materials. |
A few dogs are so strong or aggressive that a front attachment harness is not enough control. Those dogs do best in a head halter (and training!). Not recommended for use with a leash longer than 6 feet. Not recommended for running with your dog. Rarely causes chaffing on dogs with very short coats. Works great with our new Strap Wraps! |
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Whole Dog Journal's top rating! Every strap is adjustable. Multi-functional: Can also be used as a regular harness! Made in the USA of USA materials. Doesn't restrict your dog's shoulder movement. Unlikely to chafe. |
A few dogs are so strong or aggressive that a front attachment harness is not enough control. Those dogs do best in a head halter (and training!). Not recommended for use with a leash longer than 6 feet. (unless attached to the back). Not recommended for running with your dog. (unless attached to the back). Rarely causes chaffing on dogs with very short coats. Works great with our new Strap Wraps! |
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5-way adjustability! Multi-functional: Can also be used as a regular harness or to restrain your dog in the car (although it is not crash tested), Doesn't restrict your dog's shoulder movement. Padded Reflective detail Fun colors |
A few dogs are so strong or aggressive that a front attachment harness is not enough control. Those dogs do best in a head halter (and training!). Not recommended for use with a leash longer than 6 feet (unless attached to the back). Not recommended for running with your dog. (unless attached to the back). |
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Easy to fit, put on and take off. Flexible sizing. Water resistant. Reflective detailing. Made in the USA of USA materials. Chest strap lies higher across the dogs chest so it doesn't restrict your dog's shoulder movement. |
A few dogs are so strong or aggressive that a front attachment harness is not enough control. Those dogs do best in a head halter (and training!). Not recommended for use with a leash longer than 6 feet. Not recommended for running with your dog. Rarely causes chaffing on dogs with very short coats. Works great with our new Strap Wraps! |
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Available for very small dogs. Economical. Also available in a Deluxe version which is padded.And the Chic version in fun patterns |
A few dogs are so strong or aggressive that a front attachment harness is not enough control. Those dogs do best in a head halter (and training!). Not recommended for use with a leash longer than 6 feet. Not recommended for running with your dog. Can cause chaffing on dogs with very short coats. Works great with our new Strap Wraps! or you can choose the Deluxe version which has padding. Some dogs escape from this harness. We recommend that you attach your leash to both the front clip of the harness and a collar ring. |
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The straps are away from the dog's armpits and the padding helps prevent shifting and chaffing. Flexible sizing. Economical. The collar clip is a great security measure. Multi-functional: Can also be used as a regular harness! |
A few dogs are so strong or aggressive that a front attachment harness is not enough control. Those dogs do best in a head halter (and training!). Not recommended for use with a leash longer than 6 feet when attached to the chest. Not recommended for running with your dog when attached to the chest. In our usage we found that the straps would loosen over time. To remedy this, simply place a stitch through the straps once you have it adjusted to your liking. |
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Multi-functional: Can be used as a exercise harness and no-pull harness. Comfortable, padded design that is easy to put on. Lots of great extra features and Ruffwear quality. |
May not be quite as effective as other no pull harnesses such as the ones above (we are still testing).
A few dogs are so strong or aggressive that a front attachment harness is not enough control. Those dogs do best in a head halter (and training!). Not recommended for use with a leash longer than 6 feet when attached to the chest. Not recommended for running with your dog when attached to the chest. |
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Thunder Leash No Pull Leash / Harness |
Easily converts from a regular leash to a no pull harness. Easy to put on. Very durable. Does not turn the dog's shoulders or put pressure on any joints. |
May not be quite as effective as other no pull harnesses such as the ones above (we are still testing). Does put a small amount of pressure on the throat for some dogs. |
Head halters are best for very strong pullers and aggressive dogs since it gives control of the head. The shape of the HALTI Optifit head halter makes it comfortable for most dogs and it has more adjustability that others we have tried so it can work with even short nosed dogs. It also has some nice security features such as a collar link and reflective detail. Very easy to put on and to fit. Great price and good quality. |
Takes some training (like all head collars) for most dogs to get used to it. Possible concern about straining the neck if the dog lunges strongly into the collar. Not recommended for use with a leash longer than 6 feet. |
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Head halters are best for very strong pullers and aggressive dogs since it gives control of the head. The shape of this halter makes it comfortable for most dogs. Extremely easy to put on and to fit. |
Takes some training (like all head collars) for most dogs to get used to it. Possible concern about straining the neck if the dog lunges strongly into the collar. Not recommended for use with a leash longer than 6 feet. The chin portion is not adjustable like the Halti Optifit. |
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Only our Xtreme Leashes or Leash Shock Absorber are strong enough to effectively reduce pulling. These work well in addition to one of the above harnesses / collars or for dogs that don't pull very much, or the pulling is only occasional. |
Your dog may not learn to stop pulling, but the pulling will feel less strong. May feel like you have less control over your dog until you get used to how much the bungee stretches. |
Curious about other no-pull devices that aren't listed above? Check out our article, Comparison of No-Pull Devices.
Press your browser's back button to return to the previous page.
Thanks for reading and I hope you choose to support our small business with your purchase or by sharing this information with your friends!
~ Jess, Owner and Dog Trainer
]]>I always laugh when my business partner Steve Benjamin tells a story about one elderly lady who called a few years ago asking for training assistance. This lady had a toy breed dog, weighing about seven pounds. She identifies toilet paper thievery and roll dissection as her dog's behavior problem and wants lessons with Steve to correct the problem.
Steve asks, "how tall is your dog?" The lady responds, "about ten inches high." Steve then asks, "how high is the handle on your bathroom door." The lady responds, "a few feet." Steve tells her, "You have two options. You can either pay me for numerous sessions to come out and train a new behavior, or you can close the bathroom door."
Dead silence on the phone. Did she hang up?
No, she remains on the line, speechless and flabbergasted at his suggestion. "You mean I have to remember to close the bathroom door all the time?"
I had a similar experience at the classroom recently. One of my clients came in looking overwhelmed, unhappy, and frustrated at the beginning of class. She's normally a very upbeat and perky individual, something was wrong.
"Julia, what's wrong?" I asked as she stood next to her beautiful dog Sampson. Julia tells me that her dogs eat twice a day, in the morning and evening. Every single feeding time, her dogs fight over food, resource guarding their meals from the other household dogs. Many owners are devastated by dog-dog resource guarding, despite the fact that the behavior is evolutionarily advantageous; it's normal dog behavior and the majority of dog-dog resource guarding behaviors are highly ritualized and never involve a physical altercation. The dogs in Julia's home were no different, none of the resource guarding incidents involved any sort of physical contact between the dogs, just growling, hackling, and barking.
Remembering the Tao of Steve, I said, "Julia, you have two options. We can either set up a number of private lessons to work on the problem; or you can feed the dogs in separate rooms."
Dead silence as she looked at me. Steve warned me about this.
Finally, Julia says, "we'll try it.
Two days later, Julia returns to class, a beaming smile on her face and gives me a huge hug. Pleased to her significantly happier than at our last interlude, I laughed. "How are things going at home?" Julia tells me there have been no fights since our conversation, and that both she and all the dogs are more relaxed and happy together, the dogs eat at a more leisurely pace instead of inhaling their food; she no longer has to expect at least two fights a day in her house over valuable resources.
TWO (SOMETIMES THREE) OPTIONS
There are two possible solutions to this and other common behavior problems "“ training and management.
Training should focus on the development of alternative, incompatible behaviors. A dog cannot be begging food from guests or jumping on guests if he is lying on his bed calmly. A dog cannot be barking at the dog walking across the street if he is targeting his nose to your hand with duration. Focus on what you want the dog to do instead of the unwanted behavior and develop a training plan to get you there.
Management is the practice of removing opportunities for an animal to engage in or practice unwanted behaviors. Management does not necessarily teach the dog anything, but often is important for your dog's safety and to keep him from rehearsing bad behaviors.
Management is closing the bathroom door; it is feeding the dogs in separate rooms. Management is using crates to prevent potty accidents and destructive behaviors; it is using a leash to keep a dog next to you on a walk as opposed to training a dog to heeling and team walking reliability off lead. Management is baby gates and tethers, muzzles for biting dogs, or Calming Caps. Management is keeping your counters clean to prevent counter surfing; it is female dogs in heat isolated from unneutered males.
Behaviors like snatching food from counters or trash cans, dissecting things (including toilet paper, Kongs, sneakers, and raw meat), relief for a full bladder, resource guarding and chasing squirrels on a walk are extremely reinforcing behaviors for dogs; all of these common dog behavior "problems" have actually been selected for by tens of thousands of years of evolution. They're the things dogs do.
For all of these behaviors, you can train alternative, incompatible behaviors; but the rub with this is it only works if you are there to reinforce the training. You can train your dog to stay away from the counters when you are home, but if there is a steak on the counter and your dog is home alone with access to it all day, his evolutionary bias towards scavenging will likely shine through that training and you will come home to a counter that no longer has any food and a very happy, satiated dog who just got reinforced nicely for his counter surfing behavior.
For many of the behaviors, a combination of management and training is best. For some of them, management is all you need if you are able to do it consistently.
There is a third option in dealing with many "unwanted behaviors;" redirection. If your dog likes to dig, give him a digging pit or sandbox to play in. If your dog likes to chew or dissect, give him chew toys, Kong toys, etc. If your dog likes to scavenge, set up a kibble hunt in your house/yard or purchase a food dispensing toy. If your dog likes to chase, try some exercise toys or teach him to retrieve! Digging, chewing, nipping, chasing, jumping, dissecting are all natural dog urges "“ your dog will be happiest if he can engage in these activities safely.
Showing your dog what is expected of him when you are home through training, managing for his safety and success when you are unable to train, and providing a healthy outlet for the natural doggy urges which make him happiest are the keys to a well-behaved dog and a happy household.
Casey Lomonaco is a graduate of the Karen Pryor Academy for Animal Behavior & Training
and proprietress of Rewarding Behaviors Dog Training.
Casey has published articles and is the 2009 APDT Dogwise John Fisher essay contest winner.
For more information, visit www.rewardingbehaviors.com or contact casey@rewardingbehaviors.com.
The Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) method by Grisha Stewart of Ahimsa Dog Training, is a great way to help your dog to be more comfortable with what he or she is fearful, anxious, or upset about.
BAT uses desensitization together with a functional reward for calm behavior. Simply put, you begin at a distance where your dog can see what she is afraid of without reacting to it and when your dog shows calm body language, you move away from what she is afraid of as the reward. You can also add a ‘bonus’ reward of a treat or toy.
What is unique about BAT is the use of the ‘functional reward’. You can think of the functional reward as what your dog wants to happen at that moment. In the case of training an aggressive or fearful dog, what the dog generally wants is for the scary thing to be farther away. A good functional reward for your dog's calm behavior in the face of what he or she is afraid of can be retreating farther away from it. If you can teach your dog that calmness will make what scares her get farther away, you've empowered your dog while solving lots of misbehavior problems that come along with anxiety, such as barking and aggression.
While training aggressive or fearful dogs using BAT, it pays to be careful about how you desensitize and how you read your dog's body language. When desensitizing your dog, the most challenging aspect will be controlling the environment so that your dog doesn't end up ‘over threshold’, causing them to bark, lunge, etc. If you are working on training your aggressive dog to be calm when other dogs pass by, and you consistently get too close and your dog ends up barking, you will most likely be exacerbating the problem instead of solving it. What you want is to be close enough so that your dog notices the stimulus and is maybe a bit concerned about it, but not enough for them to react fearfully.
It really helps in the aggressive dog training process to have someone assisting you so that you can have control over the stimulus, but sometimes you can also get exposure when training your dog's anxiety by ‘stalking’ a dog walking trail or other predictable place where people pass by as long as you have enough space to ‘escape’.
If your dog does end up barking or upset and you cannot wait for a moment of relative calmness before retreating, it is best to get away from the stimulus as quickly as you can and start over with a greater distance or lesser intensity.
It takes a bit of practice to read your dog's body language for calmness in order to know when to reward by retreating. A great side effect of learning this skill however, is a better understanding of your dog. Grisha states that what you are looking for before retreating is “blinking, jaw loosening (being able to pant again), looking away, turning away, ground sniffing, air sniffing, tail carriage getting looser, friendly approach."
In summary, BAT can be an effective and gentle approach to training aggressive dogs to be calm about what he or she is scared of. It’s also a way to help relieve your dog's discomfort instead of masking (or increasing) it using corrections. How long it takes for you to see progress will vary greatly, but many people report results pretty quickly, especially when compared to other dog anxiety training methods.
Are you interested in trying out BAT with your dog? Here are some resources:
Let us know what you think and happy training! Explore dog training aids from Pet Expertise today.
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